I don’t think anyone can become truly intimate with the Grand Canyon unless they immerse themselves in it. In order to do that, one must go to the bottom. Going to the bottom means overnighting there since (unless you’ve climbed Everest) it’s not a good idea to attempt the Colorado River and back in the same day. For this reason, I recommend Bright Angel Campground, across Bright Angel Creek from Phantom Ranch. Water and toilets are available. It’s close to the luxuriant sand of the boat beach and Phantom and yet far enough away to escape the hubbub. Hear Ranger’s give presentations at night just across the creek.